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Bungala Ridge Permaculture Gardens

REDUCE ... REUSE ... RECYCLE ... REPAIR ... RETURN ... REVEGETATE ... REPLENISH

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Introduction to Permaculture - Course outline inlcuding notes that we offered on our property in 1998

Evaluation/Feedback Sheet

Thank you for attending. To help us plan and prepare for future workshops can you please record you comments below. Ta!

Were you happy with both workshops? Did they satisfy/answer your questions and concerns?

Is there anything not covered in these workshops that you felt needed to be?

How could the workshops be improved for future Introduction Courses?

Please record your name if you'd like to be contacted about a full Permaculture Design Course to be offered on this property in 1999?

SATURDAY

Display paper with outline of Introduction To Permaculture Course and times.

Inform everyone where facilities are: toilets, bakery for lunch, etc., are.

10.00 Opening Introductions

Make cuppa and sit down.

Going around the circle, beginning with person to left, ask each person to introduce themselves, and then ask each person to talk for a couple of minutes talk about where they found out about permaculture, how much they know, and some personal details if they want.

About Bungala Ridge Permaculture Gardens and Us.

Talk about the origins and intentions of this property and our association with permaculture ideas.

Workshop Goals

On a sheet of paper titled "What I hope to find out today" record participants' responses.

10.30 What Is Permaculture?

Ask for participants (go round the group) for their definitions and record on large piece of paper. Then read definition below and discuss.

Definition:

Bill Mollison and David Holmgren developed the origninal concept of permaculture in the mid-1970's.

Permaculture is a practical concept enabling people to establish productive environments for food, energy, shelter, material and non material needs, as well as the social and economic infrastructures that support them.

Whereas organic growing focuses on the plant and its immediate surroundings and needs, permaculture integrates all elements into an all encompassing design. In doing so it uses:

* the physical and environmental considerations particular to the site - diversion of water, water recyclings, integration of structures and landscape

* the assembly of beneficial and co-operative guilds of plants and animals

* design stategies such as zoning, sectoring, slope orientation

* use of energy effecient and energy generating structures

* conservation strategies such as recycle and re-use

* co-operative endeavors, pooling of resources, information sharing

* meaningful (not purely economic) costing based on energy inputs and outputs

* conscious design making harmonious connections between all elements

Permaculture isn't primarily concerned with the individual elements in the system, but how these elements interact and connect. Mollison says that permaculture is a "skill that says where something goes so that is functions in relation to other things."

Permaculture can be summarised as designing, building, maintaining and inhabiting organic sustainable systems for human beings.

10.45 Permaculture Ethics

Define ethic and ask for examples from everyday life.

Definition: Permaculture ethics are a set of moral values or codes of behaviour. They set the standards of correct behaviour for permaculture practitioners.

Have ready 4 sheets of paper, divided into three sections with the following headings:

"Permaculture Ethic: Care of the Earth"

"Permaculture Ethic: Care of People"

"Permaculture Ethic: Sustainable Resource Use (or Reduce Consumption and Return Surplus)"

Divide into four groups of three and ask each group to organise a recorder and speaker Ask them to discuss in five to ten minutes what each of these ethics means to them personally. Tell them to think about all aspects of their lives, not just "gardening".

Call the group together and ask each presenter to talk about what was discussed. Record key words and phrases on a large sheet of paper titled "Permaculture Ethics" . Summarise:

Care of the Earth - by working with, not against nature, of protracted and thoughtful observation and action, by asking "what can this environment give to me if I cooperate with it" rather than "what can I get from it".

Care of People - building cooperative communities through supportive action.

Sustainable Resource Use - reduce consumption and return surplus - by being naturally conservative and cautious, and using only what we need, not being wasteful or polluting, return or replace materials and energies we use, and careful energy accounting.

 

11.15 Coffee Break and look at Permaculture Books, designs, etc

 

11.30 The Importance of Design - Beverley

Talk about using the sheet "Successful Planning" about the importance of design in permaculture - read from booklet.

 

12.00 Permaculture Principles

Principles Tour - Introduction:

The ethics are the foundation of permaculture, then the footings are the permaculture principles.

In your information sheets is a list of the principles we have adopted in our permacuture philosophy. For the next hour we will go for a walk around the property looking at how some of these priniciples are developed and used. Take the list with you, and feel free to ask questions.

 

AROUND CABIN - on lawn

Small, Intensive Systems

A small suburban block is sufficient to grow all of one's food, provided the principles of a diet based on local, seasonal food is followed, with minimal flesh protein requirments.

Small scale gardening and farming leads to greater productivity per unit and is easier to manage.

David Holmgren identifies two extremes of types of permaculture practice, with a bewildering array of techniques used. 'Natural Gardening" which is closer to what is evolving on our property, focuses on the processes of climate, soil, plants and animals to provide a range of food and other yields with minimum inputs or intervention - it is the 'do little, observe lots' garden style. Fukuoka is an exponent of this style of gardening.

'Intensive Biological Gardening' includes much more controlled and interventionist approaches which involve getting the best out of the small areas around dwellings to get highly productive, intensive and densely packed systems.

Both approaches are valid, but something in the middle is desirable. We garden on about one and a half acres of the four and a half we own. This is a huge garden and requires a lot of time and energy. Our aim is to provide enough sustenance for four families when the system has matured.

Our four and a half acres are roughly divided up into dwelling, orchard, forage, woodlot and regeneration.

 

LOOK AT WOODLOT AND PADDOCK, NEXT DOOR

Ecosystems - Natural Succession - Sustainable systems

We have left the olive trees as productive species, although the olives are small they yield enough oil each year, and provide hot burning firewood from progressive trimmings from shaping and small tree removal.

In the paddock mention the three distinct stages of natural succession - the pioneering stage where degraded land is covered and colonised by aggressive, unpalatable plant species accompanied by supporting mico-organisms and fauna; an intermediary stage where herbs, grasses and shrubs thrive in the enriched soil; then the final stage where trees take over in woodlands and forests. This developmental process changes all aspects of the ecosystem, including climate.

Demonstrate degraded land - cutting, fireplace.

Effect of mulch on grass growth - productivity

Look at salvation jane on neighbours property, compare with lack of weed under tree canopy

Look at ground cover development under woodlot

Discuss invasion of sour sob in heavily mulched or disturbed areas only

Discuss how some planted tree species died in their first year, and how the kangaroos trimmed but didn't destroy the acacia melanoxylon

Mention the 'swamp' - how it has been a lot drier since the woodlot has grown and how our plans for this area have been effected

Mention uses for wild roses and olives and the place they occupy in a developing system

Talk about the positive of working with nature, about decreasing the need for energy and time inputs to create a sustainable harvest - both materially, energy and recreationally. Discuss the management strategies of this evolving woodlot ecosystem.

Move into zone 5 - regeneration and reforestation of wildlife species.

Point out the emergence of native cranberry (astroloma), fringe lillies, and bracken and insectivourous plants.

 

 

MOVE TO ABOVE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Efficient Energy Planning - Least Change Greatest Effect - Zones - Sectors

Permaculturists always try to find solutions that require low energy expenditure and minimal disturbance. Low maintenence, low input, and easily monitored and regulated sytems are most effective.

Energy efficiency is acheived through:

Zoning (to conseve human energy) which is planning based on frequency of visit - the vegetable garden is close to the house as it is visited daily, as is the firewood store (although far enough aware in summer for fire and snake hazard), chickens are visited twice daily so they are close.

Sectoring (to manage energies entering and leaving the site), including wind, water flow, rainful, sun, information - the north is where the hot summer winds come from, and we need protection so we have planted a coprosma and acacia hedge, placed the driveway above the house for fire protection, the vegetable garden in the east protects from out wild and regeneration zone. Wind energy is collected via the generator. The vegie garden is tiered to achieve greater solar access.\

Slope planning (to utilise gravity), and to make use of natural energy storage (potential energy) - duck and chook yard - organic waste is fed through top gate, and will eventually find its way down to the bottom gate where it can be easily taken and put directly onto the vegetable garden. This is in its infancy!

and by making the least change for the greatest possible effect - future large pond, below duck yard, will benefit from overflow from duck bath and bog pond, will be fed with overflow from rainwater tank in winter and driveway runoff. The position of this area requires little excavation to achieve a sizable pond

Relative Location - Stacking

This is building mutually beneficial guilds by placing elements in relation to each other according to intrinisic characteristics, needs, functions and yields to reduce energy and material input requirements. Typically this involves elevational planning of elements, both physical and temporal. Guilds natually evolve over time. Managing this evolution to get maximan effect is the business of permaculturalists.

Making use of vertical surfaces - the fence around the vegetable garden will be covered in peas and beans, and the chicken house will be covered in passionfruit. Make use of companion planting too - like beans in with the corn, or lettuce coming on beneath taller plants in summer.

Using The Edge Effect - Maximise Edges - Using Natural Patterns

Edges are special environments containing elements from both sides of the edge plus unique bordering plants. With the increased light at edges growth is enhanced. This in turn entices increased micro-fauna and animal activity. Edges provide increased opportunity for shelter. The action of wind and water deposits and accumulates nutrient rich matter - dust, humus, leaves, sand, etc., all of which improve the growing environment.

In permaculture the abundant properties of edges are recognised and included in design. Most common of these are key hole gardens, mandala gardens, herb spirals, and serrated pond edges. We tend to use narrow beds as they suit the slope of the property, running along a contour where possible making walking and harvesting easier. In the vegetable garden the tyres create moist 'nooks' where nasturtiums really take root and grow wild to supply ample mulch in summer.

 

MOVE TO SHED

Positive Net Yield - Energy Gain On Site - Conservation through recycling

Postive net yield -The yield in a permacuture system must be high, with a good surplus to return to the system. This is aimed for over time, recognising that the intensive nature of setting up the system requires initial energy and material inputs to achieve rapid results. Returning surplus ensures a good standard of living, both immediate and in the future. Surplus should be considered on every level, both living, non living, energy, and in human terms - intellectual, social, spiritual, etc. At the moment our garden is still consuming materials from outside of the property, however there is already enough here if we harvested it and used it - weeds for compost, nasturtium and pea for mulch, animal manured mulch ready for use on garden, manure and herbal tea.

Energy gain on site: Solar and wind power generation.

Permaculturalists aim for an energy gain, not drain!

This begins with conservation - making sure that nothing goes to waste or is lost from the system unnecessarily. Look at composting systems, manure and weed tea.

Utilise natural energy stores, but using nutrients and energies close to their source and reusing repeatedly before they leave the site. Rainwater collection.

Recycling materials and energies is critical to maintain and developing surplus. Make things pay - use and reuse energies and materials as often as you can. Look at tyres in garden, most of the pavers are recycled, and the chicken shed has been moved five times and had five different uses! The garden shed and woodstore is also recycled, and remodelled!

 

MOVE TO NURSERY

See Solutions Not Problems

Bill Mollison is quoted as saying "You don't have a snail problem, you have a duck deficiency!" The ability to reword and rearrange problems which need solving, brainstorming creative solutions is an attitude to be developed and nurtured for successful permaculture systems. Good design turns perceived disadvantages into advantages, seeing solutions not problems. Permaculture uses creative design, rather than energy or capital, to increase productivity.

We were asked to remove and dump a Hill's Rotary Hoist. Beverley immediately saw a shadehouse as it was loaded onto the trailer, and two days later the nursery was finished!

Another attitude change was reconsidering our aphid problem as a lack of small birds - increasing shrubbery around the rose garden offered the cover the birds needed to do their work in the rose garden.

Cooperation Not Competition

Permaculture requires the integration of many disciplines including agriculture, forestry, animal husbandry, aquaculture, wilderness mangagement, sociology and economics. It is vital that the principles of cooperation are applied, with information and ideas sharing prominent and actively promoted. Competition for survival by individual elements in nature is never in isolation - in reality competition is a mutually benefical and cooperative venture where survival is assured with change and adaptation the result.

This workshop is a prime example - we also run workshops in home based schooling, being pioneer members of the movement in this state, editing newsletters and coordinating groups.

In the garden we are gradually eliminating invasive species and replacing them with beneficial plants - like grasses with pigface in the orchard, miniature pigface under the roses to squeeze out sour sob and grasses, lambs ears and nasturtium crowding out weeds and grasses.

 

MOVE UNDER HOUSE

Appropriate Technology

Permaculture makes use of simple, low energy or energy producing solutions and technology, taking into considerations all energy costs of technology used - the retaining wall - use of terraces to create a stabilised bank using recycled and lightweight materials, saving at least $900 on an equivalent height sleeper or concrete wall.

Another example is painting the top of the toilet flue black, thus reducing the need to use the fan during the summer months, and therefore saving on power.

MOVE TO CHICKENS IN ORCHARD

Multiple Elements - Multiple Functions

All elements in a system are chosen and placed to perform as many functions as possible. A good rule of thumb is to work toward achieving three functions - there will be many more hidden functions that only become apparent over time.

The chickens offer eggs, supply nutrients, keep down grass and weeds, insect control, break down the mulch and help with the composting process! And the rooster is a handy alarm clock in the morning!

Guilds - Tree in Orchard

The fruit tree has companion plants and leguminous plants around it for beneficial effect - nasturtiums, onions, narcissus bulbs, lavender for pest control, comfrey to mine the minerals int he soil, tagasaste/acacia for mulch from trimmings and release of nitrogen in soil, beehive nearby for pollination, albizzia to attract ladybirds, and flowering shrubs offer windbreak and attract insect eating birds. Timber log offers refuge for lizards and mulch encourages microfauna which break it down to release nutrients for tree.

 

BY THE CITRUS NEAR TOP OF THE STEPS

Diversity - polyculture

Our property embraces diversity and polyculture - we have a woodlot for firewood production, maintain olive trees for oil, hot burnng firewood and olives, mixed fruit and nut orchard, nursery, vegetable garden, poultry and eventually we will be expanding into aquaculture and wildfoods.

Diverse polycultures have worked well in previous centuries and the push for monocultures have produced disease ridden agricultural systems with ever increasing input requirements for success. Research is proving that polyculture is again a viable and sensible alternative. Diversity increases productivity and stability.

Permaculturalist aim to increase diversity on every level - diversity of flora and fauna species, cultivars, yields, niches, functions, social roles and work. Finding the right balance so that diversity works and is not outright chaos is the key to permaculture practice, and necessitates thoughtful design. Functional order is better than tidiness.

 

1.00 Lunch

 

1.45 Questions and Answers

 

2.00 Introduce Permaculture Techniques

Introduce information section in booklet about techniques. Talk about the social and community aspects of permaculture and techniques applied outside of 'gardening' first, then move outside and demonstrate other techniques by touring.

 

IN THE CABIN - DEMONSTRATE AND TALK ABOUT:

 

Permaculture is about all aspects of life, and becoming involved in community endeavors to help change the prevailing ethics of consumerism is important.

L.E.T.S.

Talk about LETS as an enabling social organisation.

 

Energy Efficient Planning - Zones and Sectors

Zoning is very important - the cornerstone of permaculture design. Zones are based on element placement according to freuency of visit. Zoning achieves maximum inputs, resource recycling, high yields, low maintenance, and maximum functions. Show plan on large sheet of paper.

The house is zone 0 - in our case it includes inside, the shadehouse and underneath the house, the cottage, and the cabin.

Zone 1 includes the gardens immediately around the house - annual beds, intensive mulched vegetable perennial and annual garden, herb garden, small ponds systems, energy generating systems, firewood store, washing line, sheds, small animal houses.

Zone 2 Garden beds. Animals such as chickens or other poutry, earthworm farm, rabbits or guinea pigs. Aquaculture tanks or ponds. Hedges and trellising utilised for edge effects. Compost heap. Small orchard of fruit and nut trees.

Zone 3 Larger scale orchards and geese, living mulches, goat pen, beehives, fodder plants, windbreaks for house, firebreaks.

Zone 4 Woodlots, dams, agroforestry, shelterbelts, windmills, farm stock. Swales, drains, dams and other water harvesting strategies.

Zone 5 Wilderness, natural forest or bush. Catchment area and flora and fauna preservation. Wildlife corridors. Forest regrowth. Reforestation.

Sectors allow all the energies generated outside of the site and move through it to be harvested or deflected - wind, water flow, fire, sun, rain and information. The direction these energies enter the site are called sectors, and can be analysed for intensity and effect. Designing using sectors allows these energies to be managed or harvested efficiently, or deflected or excluded accordingly. See map.

 

OUTSIDE CABIN - ON LAWN

Soil Testing and Analysis - Demonstrate and talk about importance.

 

ORCHARD - WORK WAY UP STEPS THEN ACROSS TO CHICKEN HOUSE

Zone 2

Companion planting - under fruit trees we are establishing nursturtiums, bulbs, comfrey, small prostrate plants and shrubs, ground covers, and planting tagasaste and acacias which are pruned for mulch, and are nitrogenous.

Living Mulch - establishing pigface and gazenias, plus nursturtiums to cut down on grass growth, plus larger shrubs also crowd out grasses. Preferring flowering and hardy shrubs, both indigenous and exotic - also function as food and shelter for birds, etc.

Natural Pest Control - building up a diverse range of flora and fauna to supplement action of poulty. Attracting insects, lizards, frogs (pond by cabin and by chicken house), birds, etc. Also are planning on planting more herbs, like scallions and garlic around fruit trees.

Animals - small animals and poultry and water fowl are used to maintain the area. Guinea pigs free range and are protected by shrubs and have three huts placed around orchard. They eat the grass. Chickens and magpies clean up the bugs and grubs, and ducks and geese (eventually) will also cut grass, eat sour sob. All animals manure the orchard. The chickens are a nuisance with mulch so straw and loose mulching is only done when it can be covered with prunings.

Swales - because of the slope swales are being constructed over time with timber, to restrict flow of mulch down the hill and to trap plant material around base of tree. This is in an experimental stage.

Mulching - we use whatever comes to hand - rocks, broken pavers, straw, spoiled hay, grass cuttings, prunings, wool trimmings, hessian bags, underfelt, leaves, bark, and pine bark/chips.

Suntraps - Citrus tree. To protect from southerly and southwesterly winter winds - have noticed improvement in trees protected. Didn't plant climber over structure as a clinging one would have a negative effect on tree.

Recycling & Re-using Energies and Materials - Chicken house - half rainwater tank, door recycled from junk from dump.

Terraforming - Greywater pond - under construction & the bank along the driveway. Used corrugated iron wall to add height to pond without too much spread of pond wall. The bank is used as a visual and physical barrier to slope from driveway, diverts runoff from driveway coming off road, and is a fire retarding structure.

Appropriate Technology - a lot of digging is done by hand over a long period of time. Going slow rather than rushing keeps things at a sensible pace where evaluation becomes very much a integral part of the process. Helps keep us flexible.

 

MOVE TO NURSERY

Zone 2

Catastrophe Planning - sector analysis, fire, wind, water NW corner. Windbreaks, sappy deciduous trees, reflective coprosma, agapanthus and earth bank with proposed grapevine in fire sector.

Cluster Buildings/Housing - property planned so that the cabin and house (and cottage) are linked by the orchard and will be connected with a circular path eventually that weaves its way through orchard. Dense plantings around the buildings act as buffers for noise, pollution, dust, and for privacy.

Nursery - Plant Propagation - Zone 2 - With the number of plants we put into the ground each year it is necessary to grow our own. The shadehouse is becoming increasingly necessary with the ozone hole making conditions harder in summer for native seedling germination, and most of our germination is done in the shadehouse. Cuttings are also started in there, or under clear plastic or glass over polystyrene boxes. We propogate by seed (natives, exotics and vegies), by cutting, by layering, and by potting on purchased seedlings.

Seed Collecting and Trees For Life

Have seed collection kit on draining board. Talk about Trees For Life tree scheme.

 

MAKE WAY TO HOUSE VIA HERB GARDEN

Zone 0 - The House

Herb Garden - not such a good site - poor soil, competition from trees, moving to vegetable garden and in pots by back door soon.

Ponds - watercress, water chestnut, nardoo, frogs, basket weaving reed. Nursery ponds, developing species for transplant to larger ponds later.

Shadehouse - pleasure, outdoor eating, misting on hot days and nights.

Energy Efficient/ Passive Solar House Design - orientation of house and rooms inside, wide verandahs and eaves, shadehouse and polycarbonate, termite control planning, bamboo blinds for summer, deciduous trees north of house for full winter sun access, use of vines for shading, north facing bank of windows effective supplementary heating in winter. Cabin and cottage use slab floor.

Insulation - walls, floor and ceiling. Also use jetty in summer on days 38' plus (appropriate technology)!

 

MOVE TO SHED

Zone 1

Soft Technology - solar hot water systems, thermosyphon, photovoltaic panels, rainwater collection, wind power generation,

 

UNDER HOUSE

Zone 0-1

Recycling and Harvesting Organic Wastes - human waste composting with clivus multrum - appropriate technology, grey water, use of recycled materials for construction of house, cottage and cabin.

Recycling and Reusing - plastics, glass, metals recycling depot and dry store for building materials under house. We also have a 'dump' for larger items - iron, wood, etc down the track.

 

MOVE TO VEGIE GARDEN

Zone 1

Refocus on Local, Seasonable Food Culture (Gastronomy) Development - changing our diet to a low animal protein, high seasonal fruit and vegetable, supplemented by moderate grain intake, is probably the most important aspect of gardening overlooked by many people. It is important to learn to grow what you eat and to learn to eat what you grow.

Organic gardening - we have a minimalist intervention approach, leaning toward natural garden. This means we generally don't mind a few pests, unless in plague proportions, but use natural control methods instead of rushing out and buying proprietory chemicals. We use the principles of building up the soil with mulch, compost, minerals, and nutrients and microfauna.

No Tillage (no dig gardening) - apart from forking the ground to aerate it, or using a hoe to mix compost into the top few inches after the chickens have cleared the garden beds we don't generally dig. Sometimes we prepare the soil thoroughly, by digging deeply and treating the soil, in order to grow plants such as blueberry which have very definite soil requirements.

Composting (make sieve for compost) & Worm Farms - We like to make two big heaps each year and get a lot of satisfaction from it. We import cow manure, which the worms love to breed in and spoiled hay with horse manure in it. We bring up a trailer load of stuff from the guinea pig cage, which usually contains seasoned seaweed and pine needles as well as a lot of grass and weed matter and pigeon droppings, clean out the duck and chicken houses, and build a big heap, which we keep moist and covered. The heap is used on the vegetable garden in spring and autumn, and for making potting mix.

Manure Tea - we have two buckets going - one by the chooks and the other by the nursery with chicken manure stew, and a large barrel with a herb tea, a mix of weeds and comfrey. These are used in the vegetable garden, pot plants and in the nursery.

Crop rotation - we have a chart which tells us where we have planted things during the year - and this helps to rotate crops necessary for giving the ground a spell, and following nutrient hungry plants with nitrogenous ones, for example. However the garden has a mind of its own, prefering to allow seeds to set and plants to sprout up wherever!

Chicken Tractor with bantams - we used to have three pens, but found the movement around the garden restrictive, so now we have one large one. The bantams are very selective, leaving many food plants and some weeds alone. They don't plough the ground like the big chooks, so are ideal for tidying up this garden. At the same time they clear up rogue seeds, weeds, pests, and fertilise the garden. They take about two months to do a good job and are usually given the winter months.

Companion Planting - we use nasturtiums a lot - to repel aphids, attract insects that would otherwise concentrate on the braasicas, provide mulch, both living and dead, and we eat the occasional flower in a salad. Horseradish is planted as it protects potatoes from fungus. Lovage is known to improve the health of plants in general.

Windbreaks - in the early days the south and north winds played havoc with the garden and we used shadecloth on the fences, but planting shrubs, building the cottage and the shed by the washing line have helped a lot.

Perennial plants - continual cropping - a lot of plants are allowed to perenialise - including silverbeet, lettuce, cauliflower, broccoli. Silverbeet is being grown for animal fodder during summer.

Raised Beds - by shed and for asparagus - strawberries are grown in tyres and the berries hang down making picking easy - also allows for pine mulch to be used. Blueberries, tomatoes, capsicums and strawberries are planting in a raised bed. The asparagus is planted in a raised bed, allowing for backfill of mulch to whiten stalks, but it is still in the establishing stage.

Weed Harvesting - for guinea pigs, ducks, chickens to turn into compost, and also selected weeds (deep rooting like dock) for fertiliser tea.

Stacking - using verticle space - cover chicken house with passionfruit, fences with peas and beans etc. The pergola is used for vines - kiwi and grape, and grapes are trellised against the house.

Water Harvesting, Collection, Storage - The house is mostly run on rainwater for nearly all the year. Collected from roof and pumped to storage tanks, which are being gradually aquired. Eventually runoff will go into large pond beyond duck yard and used for irrigation.

 

3.30 Cuppa and Questions and Answers!

 

3.55 Introduce Next Session - Site Planning and Permaculture Design

The aim of the next session is to provide hands-on practical design experience with incorporating permaculture principles and techniques 'on the ground' - by rejuvenating and renovating the Cabin.

We will be looking at Site Selection, Information Gathering, Design Process, Developing & Drawing A Plan, Retrofitting.

 

4.00 Close

 

 

 

 


Principles

Introduction:

Talk to any permaculturist and they will have a different set of Permaculture Principles. This is because very little in permaculture is set in concrete, apart from the Ethics, and this is how it should be - fluid, dynamic, responsive to individual situations and needs. The following set of principles are the ones we have developed in our permaculture philosophy.

Ecosystems - Natural Succession - Sustainable systems

Permaculture makes use of working with, rather than against nature. To do so you need to have an understanding of how ecosystems evolve and how the elements within them, both living and non living interact and build interdependencies.

An ecosystem describes an area and all that it contains, including soil, air, water and energies, and shows many food chains and interdependencies. There are many micro-ecosystems being developed on this property.

Ecosystems cycle matter. Stable systems have little matter input or output. To reach stability there are distinct stages - the pioneering stage where degraded land is covered and colonised by aggressive, unpalatable plant species accompanied by supporting mico-organisms and fauna; an intermediary stage where herbs, grasses and shrubs thrive in the enriched soil; then the final stage where trees take over in woodlands and forests. This developmental process changes all aspects of the ecosystem, including climate.

Sustainable systems aim for this stable stage, but unlike natural ecosystems, human activity seeks to manage the changes and processes in permaculture systems.

Small, Intensive Systems

Permaculture encourages small-scale intensive landuse patterns, enabling marginal land to be returned or remain as natural ecosystems. The small size leads to greater productivity per unit and is easier to manage. Density and diversity are key factors balanced by good management practice.

Diversity - polyculture

Diverse polycultures have worked well in previous centuries and the push for monocultures have produced disease ridden agricultural systems with ever increasing input requirements for success. Research is proving that polyculture is again a viable and sensible alternative. Diversity increases productivity prductivity and stability.

Permaculturalist aim to increase diversity on every level - diversity of flora and fauna species, cultivars, yields, niches, functions, social roles and work. Finding the right balance so that diversity works and is not outright chaos is the key to permaculture practice, and necessitates thoughtful design. Functional order is better than tidiness.

Cooperation Not Competition

Permaculture requires the integration of many disciplines including agriculture, forestry, animal husbandry, aquaculture, wilderness mangagement, sociology and economics. It is vital that the principles of cooperation are applied, with information and ideas sharing prominent and actively promoted. Competition for survival by individual elements in nature is never in isolation - in reality competition is a mutually benefical and cooperative venture where survival is assured with change and adaptation the result.

Multiple Elements - Multiple Functions

All elements in a system are chosen and placed to perform as many functions as possible. A good rule of thumb is to work toward achieving three functions - there will be many more hidden functions that only become apparent over time.

Relative Location - Stacking

This is building mutually beneficial guilds by placing elements in relation to each other according to intrinisic characteristics, needs, functions and yields to reduce energy and material input requirements. Typically this involves elevational planning of elements, both physical and temporal. Guilds natually evolve over time. Managing this evolution to get maximan effect is the business of permaculturalists.

Using The Edge Effect - Maximise Edges - Using Natural Patterns

Edges are special environments containing elements from both sides of the edge plus unique bordering plants. With the increased light at edges growth is enhanced. This in turn entices increased micro-fauna and animal activity. Edges provide increased opportunity for shelter. The action of wind and water deposits and accumulates nutrient rich matter - dust, humus, leaves, sand, etc., all of which improve the growing environment.

Natural patterns are evident in any sphere of life, but are most obvious in placement and flow. Going with natural patterns, 'with the flow', rather than against is energy efficent.

In permaculture the abundant properties of edges are recognised and included in design. Most common of these are key hole gardens, mandala gardens, herb spirals, and serrated pond edges.

Efficient Energy Planning - Least Change Greatest Effect - Zones - Sectors

Energy efficiency is acheived through zoning (to conseve human energy), sectoring (to manage wild energies), slope planning (to utilise gravity) and by making the least change for the greatest possible effect. Permaculturists always try to find solutions that require low energy expenditure and minimal disturbance. Low maintenence, low input, and easily monitored and regulated sytems are most effective.

Zoning encompasses designing according to temporal activity - how often one needs to visit a particular element or guild. The following table indicates the Zones generally adopted:

Zone

Key Features

0

House or other human living areas.

1

Intensive sheet-mulched food gardens, pond, shadehous, greenhouse, rainwater tank, tool shed. Some fruit trees, such as lemon. Low windbreak around the garden.

2

Garden beds. Animals such as chickens or other poutry, earthworm farm, rabbits or guinea pigs. Aquaculture tanks or ponds. Hedges and trellising utilised for edge effects. Compost heap. Small orchard of fruit and nut trees.

3

Larger scale orchards and geese, living mulches, goat pen, beehives, fodder plants, windbreaks for house, firebreaks.

4

Woodlots, dams, agroforestry, shelterbelts, windmills, farm stock. Swales, drains, dams and other water harvesting strategies.

5

Wilderness, natural forest or bush. Catchment area and flora and fauna preservation. Wildlife corridors. Forest regrowth. Reforestation.

 

Sectors allow all the energies generated outside of the site and move through it to be harvested - wind, water flow, fire, sun, rain and information. The direction these energies enter the site are called sectors, and can be analysed for intensity and effect. Designing using sectors allows these energies to be managed or harvested efficiently, or deflected or excluded accordingly.

Positive Net Yield - Energy Gain On Site - Energy Recycling & Conservation (no loss)

The yield in a permacuture system must be high, with a good surplus to return to the system. This is aimed for over time, recognising that the intensive nature of setting up the system requires initial energy and material outputs to achieve rapid results. Returning surplus ensures a good standard of living, both immediate and in the future. Surplus should be considered on every level, both living, non living, energy, and in human terms - intellectual, social, spiritual, etc. Permaculturalists aim for an energy gain, not drain!

This begins with conservation - making sure that nothing goes to waste or is lost from the system unnecessarily. Utilise natural energy stores, but using nutrients and energies close to their source and reusing repeatedly before they leave the site.

Recycling materials and energies is critical to maintain and developing surplus. Make things pay - use and reuse energies and materials as often as you can.

Appropriate Technology

Permaculture makes use of simple, low energy or energy producing solutions and technology, taking into considerations all energy costs of technology used.

See Solutions Not Problems

Bill Mollison is quoted as saying "You don't have a snail problem, you have a duck deficiency!" The ability to reword and rearrange problems which need solving, brainstorming creative solutions is an attitude to be developed and nurtured for successful permaculture systems. Good design turns perceived disadvantages into advantages, seeing solutions not problems. Permaculture uses creative design, rather than energy or capital, to increase productivity.

 

BOOKS ON PERMACULTURE

 

INTRODUCTION TO PERMACULTURE by Bill Mollison and Reny Mia Slay. 1991. Tagari Publishers, Tyalgum, Australia. 198 p.

PERMACULTURE ONE: A PERENNIAL AGRICULTURE FOR HUMAN SETTLEMENTS, 3rd ed (Reprint of 1978 ed) by Bill Mollison and David Holmgren.

1987. Tagari Publishers, Tyalgum, New South Wales, Australia. 127 p.

PERMACULTURE TWO: A PRACTICAL DESIGN FOR TOWN AND COUNTRY IN PERMANENT AGRICULTURE by Bill Mollison. 1979. Tagari Press, Stanley, Australia. 150 p.

PERMACULTURE: A DESIGNER'S MANUAL by Bill Mollison. 1988. Tagari Publications, Tyalgum, Australia. 576 p.

THE BEST OF PERMACULTURE by Max O. Lindegger and Robert Tap. 1986. Nascimanere Publishers, Nambour, Australia. 136 p.

THE PERMACULTURE WAY: PRACTICAL WAYS TO CREATE A SELF-SUSTAINING WORLD by Graham Bell. 1992. Thorsons, London. 239 p.

THE PERMACULTURE GARDEN by Graham Bell. 1994. Thorsons, London. 170 p.

URBAN PERMACULTURE by David Watkins. 1993. Permanent Publications, U.K. 152 p.

PERMACULTURE IN A NUTSHELL by Patrick Whitefield. 1993. Permanent Publications, U.K. 75 p.

EARTH USER'S GUIDE TO PERMACULTURE by Rosemary Morrow and Rob Allsop. 1994. Kangaroo Press, Kenthurst, NSW Australia. 152 p.

GETTING STARTED IN PERMACULTURE by Ross and Jennifer Mars. 1995. Candlelight Trust, Hovea, Western Australia. 60 p.


Techniques - A Sample

There are a bewildering array of permaculture techniques - not just the ones you most commonly hear or read about. The most famous are organic gardening with an emphasis on no dig gardening, mandala gardens and key hole beds, and lots of mulching. Permaculture is much more than just gardening though, or applying a few techniques - it is consciously designing according to permaculture principles and ethics in all areas of your life. In essence, permaculture is applying common sense and following the scientific method of observation, hypothesis, experimentation and evaluation.


Social

L.E.T.S.

Ethical Finance

Community Organisations - PASA, FROG

Food Cooperatives

Community Gardens

Edible Street Scaping, Urban Forestry

Carpooling, alternative travel arrangements

Zoning Communities & Centralisation - moving houses, facilities back to the 'centre' - within easy reach - Cluster and Connect

Cooperative Facilities - washing, kitchen/dining, meeting rooms, public toilets, day care facilities, education, library, recycling depot, parking for all vehicle types

Leisure Spaces

Local, Seasonable Food Culture (Gastronomy) Development

 

Structures

Energy Efficient House Design - planning of rooms

Insulations

Cluster Buildings/Housing

Biotecture

Terraforming

Glasshouses, Shadehouses, Greenhouses, Sun Rooms/Solariums

Passive solar design - thermal mass/heat sink - earth, concrete slab floor, solid construction, water storage

Ventillation/Cooling - shadehouses, solar chimneys, misting in greenhouse

Soft Technology - solar hot water systems, thermosyphon, photovoltaic panels, rainwater collection, wind power generation, human waste composting, grey water

Appropriate Technology

 

Plant Systems

Mandala Gardens

Herb Spirals

Cold Frames

Mulching

Keyhole gardens

Composting (make sieve for compost)

Guilds

Companion planting

Manure Tea

Crop rotation

Organic gardening

No Tillage (no dig gardening)

Hedgerows

Quarantine Zone

Soil Testing & Management

Living Mulch

Windbreaks

Perennial plants - continual cropping

Raised Beds

Weed Harvesting

Nursery

Stacking - using verticle space

Seed Collection, Heritage Seeds

 

Animal Systems

Worm Farms

Natural Pest Control

Animals

 

Management

Recycling & Re-using Energies and Materials

Recycling & Harvesting Organic Wastes

Catastophe Planning

Ecological Site Planning - orientation toward thesun, sun rights, wind/noise/pollution buffer considerations

Swales

Biological Control

Erosion Control

Fire Protection

Water Harvesting, Collection, Storage. Treatment & Multiple Uses

Ponds

Suntraps

Integrating animals/plants

Ponds

Aquaculture


SUNDAY 1st

10.00 Opening Introductions

About Bungala Ridge Permaculture Gardens

Workshop Goals

10.30 What Is Permaculture?

10.45 Permaculture Ethics

11.15 Cuppa and look at Permaculture Books

11.30 The Importance of Design & Successful Planning

12.00 Permaculture Principles

1.00 Lunch

1.45 Questions and Answers

2.00 Introduce Permaculture Techniques

3.30 Cuppa and Questions and Answers!

3.55 Introduce Next Session - Site Planning and Permaculture Design

4.00 Close

 

SUNDAY 8th

10.00 Review: Revise Permaculture Ethics, Principles, Zones, Sectors

10.30 Stages In Permaculture Design

1. Site Selection, Tools

2. Information Gathering

3. Designing

12.00 The Permaculture Design

1.00 Lunch

1.45 Continuing the Design

2.45 Presenting The Design - Group 1

3.00 Presenting The Design - Group 2

3.15 Discussion about Designs - Suggestions, etc.

3.30 Permaculture Support Groups and Information

3.45 Any Questions or Comments, Completion of Feedback Sheet

4.00 Close

 

 

 

 

SUNDAY

10.00 Review: Revise Permaculture Ethics, Principles, Zones, Sectors

10.30 Stages In Permaculture Design

The aim of the following activity is to briefly acquaint the participants with the factors involved in planning a permaculture design. In this way an overall concept of what permaculture means, and how it can impact on all areas of life, not just 'gardening', can be developed.

Briefly discuss the following:

1. Site Selection

Personal factors

Aspect

Catastrophe planning

Rainfall

Goals

Regulations

Resource availability

2. Information Gathering

Tools:

Observation and Analysis:

Site Characteristics - terrain, flora and fauna, climate, micro climate, water, soils, history.

Patterns - movement, time, energy flows relating to people, animals and plants.

Learn from others.

Data:

Maps

Photos

Reference books and people

Weather information.

Understanding Permaculture Principles and their application.

3. Designing

Base Plan and Overlays: Scale - Legend - Key - Direction.

Sector and Zone Overlays: Begin Zone 0 to Zone 5

Plant and Animal Lists: Innate characteristics - needs - yields.

Appropriate Technology: Structures - Electricity (Fuels) - Water - Recycling

Implementation Schedule

Materials Specification

12.00 The Permaculture Design

Form two groups. Each group will follow a detailed guide and will have access to Permaculture texts, magazines, and other information.

1.00 Lunch

1.45 Continuing the Design

2.45 1st Group: Presenting The Design

The group present their design and discuss what they have done, using the mud map and overlays they have prepared.

3.00 2nd Group: Presenting The Design

The group present their design and discuss what they have done, using the mud map and overlays they have prepared.

3.15 Discussion about Designs - Suggestions, etc.

3.30 Permaculture Support Groups and Information

3.45 Any Questions or Comments, Completion of Feedback Sheet

4.00 Close

 

 

 

 

 


photos of the ever changing view of the coast from our living room window
Our ever-changing view!
Moonset ~ Roll Cloud ~ Sunset

permaculture ethics
care for earth,
care for people,
return surplus,
reduce consumption

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Copyright © Beverley Paine 2002-14. Article from this website may be downloaded, reproduced, and distributed without permission as long as each copy includes this entire notice along with citation information (i.e., name of the periodical in which it originally appeared, date of publication, and author's name). Permission must be obtained from the author in order to reprint this article in a published work or to offer it for sale in any form. Please visit Bungala Ridge Permaculture Gardens for more original content by Beverley Paine.